2. Setting the timing requires patience and an understanding that the system is precise and may require some trial and error to get right. Once set correctly, however, it will probably never have to be readjusted. That's the beauty of an electronic ignition!
1. Make sure the main switch is off and the battery positive lead is disconnected and secured.
2. Remove the ignition cover on the right side of the bike, then remove the points plate and advance mechanism.
3. Disconnect the wires running to the points assembly and set it aside. Note the wire routing.
4. Remove the points cam from the advance mechanism. Remove any shim washers at the base of the advance shaft.
5. Apply a light coating of grease on the advancer shaft and install the rotor with the round indent on the top of the rotor aligned with the "TF14" mark on the advancer. The two weights will have to be extended to fit the slots in the rotor.
Note: On some advancers there is a small pin located near the bottom of the advancer shaft. NOT the locating pin on the back of the advancer. If you have this pin on your advancer, grind it off with small grinding tool or file. Clean with WD-40 to remove metal particles then apply light oil to prevent rust.
6. Once the rotor is attached to advancer check for free movement and proper tension on the return springs. Reinstall the advancer on the crankshaft. Align the pin on the advancer with the hole on the crankshaft.
7. Install ignition plate but do not fully tighten the 3 mounting screws. Route wiring the same as the original points assembly with the grommet in the same orientation. Do not connect any wires yet.
8. Gently rotate the plate clockwise as far as it will go.
9. Reinstall the large washer and M10 bolt to the correct torque. Make sure the new plate does not come in contact with the advancer in any position.
10. Wire connections: Disconnect the rear brake light switch black wire. Plug the male bullet terminal black wire from the new ignition. Plug the black wire from the brake switch into the female bullet terminal black wire on the ignition wire harness. Do NOT connect the blue and yellow wires yet.
11. Reconnect the battery positive lead. Turn on the main switch
12. Rotate the crankshaft clockwise at least 1 full rotation. The LED on the left side of the plate will be lit when the crankshaft rotates half. Continue rotating until the "F1-4" mark on the advancer is aligned with the mark on the crankcase. This is visible through the hole in the plate. If you go to far just continue rotating clockwise until the "F1-4" mark is reached again.
13. Rotate the ignition plate counter clockwise very slowly until the moment when the LED light turns on. Stop rotating as soon as the light turns on and tighten the 3 screws. Do not overtighten the screws. DON'T rotate the plate clockwise if you go too far just go back to step 12.
14. Rotate the crankshaft at least one full rotation and make sure the LED lights during half the rotation.
15. Connect the yellow wire and blue wire to the corresponding color on the stock harness (where the points used to connect). Make sure all wiring is secured.
16. Make sure the rear brake light works.
17. The advance can be checked with a dynamic timing light. Reinstall the ignition cover and gasket.
1. Battery too low. The engine turns over, but the low battery means that the ignition is not getting enough voltage to work properly. Needs at least 8 Volts while cranking. Charge battery and try again.
2. One or both cylinders not firing. This can be as simple as a fouled spark plug that resulted from multiple start / stops.
3. Spark plug caps are non-resistor type. The ignition requires that the spark plug caps are 5K resistor caps. We have them available here.
4. After installing the new ignition, it's important to check the timing again after riding a few hundred miles. Then you should be good to go for a very long time!
5. Still haven't figured out the issue, please refer to the forums